Pigeon-shooting, gardening and foraging for fungi have all become hobbies of mine since I moved to the New Forest in March this year. So when my uncle-in-law called me to ask whether I could help him make some cider last month, I immediately said yes, sensing an opportunity to further improve my ever-expanding self-sufficiency skills (and also because, as a keen cider drinker, I thought there might be some free cider on tap at some point).
I headed approximately six miles south-west, as the woodpecker flies, to Godshill, where Chris, my uncle-in-law, lives with his wife Kate.

He runs a pottery and has a large garden and an orchard on land that his family have lived on since 1914. He is an energetic and robust seventy-eight year-old who produces pottery, tends a large vegetable garden, cycles vast distances, and makes forty gallons of cider every season. There has been a glut of apples this year and down my road there have been wheelbarrows and plastic trays full of fruit left at the end of driveways with signs for people to help themselves. Chris had plenty of them already – a mixture of proper cider apples and general ‘eaters’ of a few different varieties. He and Kate had already picked them in their orchard – a combination of windfall and tree-picked – and put them in sacks that were resting up against the shed where he keeps his barrels.

The cider is legendary amongst family and friends. Chris’s son described it as ‘tight-hat cider’ because, he says, after about a pint of it ‘it feels as though you’re wearing a very tight hat’. Chris dilutes it with a little ginger ale (sounds strange but tastes great) to reduce the alcohol content (that he reckons is somewhere around 13 per cent in the barrel) and puts the whole thing through a soda stream to give it some gentle fizz. He serves it from one of his own pitchers. I’ve enjoyed quite a few deep delicious gulps of it on warm summer evenings in their beautiful garden.

But cider-making is not quite the mysterious art I thought it might be. In fact, all you really have to do to make cider is make some apple juice, wait for a month to allow some natiral fermentation to take place, then add some sugar and wait for a while longer. Chris lets his juice ferment and mature into proper cider for three years before he starts to drink it.
Last year’s batch had turned to vinegar and Chris is concerned that the barrel is not clean. It is the first time it has happened to him in more than twenty years of cider making and he is determined not to let it happen again. We discuss possible uses of cider vinegar – for wart removal and general health – but agree that it would be difficult to use 40 gallons of the stuff and that proper cider is definitely preferable.
Chris squinted at me when we head out into the yard, with his eyes twinkling a little.
‘So you’ve come to learn our country ways, have ye?’ he said, putting on his finest Wiltshire farmer’s accent.
We started washing the barrel by filling it with sterilising solution and rocking it back and forth so that it created a wave that ‘scours’ the inner surface. Then we washed it out with fresh water a number of times.


Chris cleaned the wooden slats of the cage that will hold the apples once they’re being pressed.

Chris is deliberate, methodical and careful in everything he does. We washed the apples, a sack at a time in metal tubs filled with fresh water.

Then we started loading the cleaned apples into the ‘apple mill’ — a Heath Robinson type contraption if ever there was one:


This has a metal hopper or chute that takes the fruit down onto a crushing mechanism formed of two sets of counter-rotating gears with hard nylon teeth.

The machine was originally hand powered but has been converted to run on mains electricity. We crushed the apples once or twice — depending on how mushy they were — before loading them into the press. The crushing process means that the apples give up their juice far more easily.
This is the press without the cage:

And this is it with it:

We were able to fit about four buckets’ full of apples into the spindle press and then stacked the wooden blocks on top and started to turn the handle and press the apples.

The juice comes flooding out through the sides of the wooden slats and into the circular metal channel that runs around the base of the press. This has a pouring lip at one point and the apple juice gushed out of it, into a two gallon bucket waiting underneath. We placed a sieve on top of the bucket to catch any solid lumps of apple that may have otherwise found their way into the liquid.
At first, the juice was cloudy but it later became clear and golden as the press squashed down harder on the apples. At one point in the day we stopped and had a glass of it. It had quite a subtle flavour – sweet but not cloying.
Turning the handle gets harder and harder until it’s impossible to turn it any more. At that point, Chris attached a gear to make it easier to turn and we managed to exert a little more pressure. Once the juice had stopped flowing – and it may take twenty or thirty minutes for it to run completely dry (’you can’t rush it’ says Chris with a grin) – we began to break the press apart. What is left is quite spectacular – Chris described it as a ‘cheese’ of dessicated apple.

We broke it up and put it in a wheelbarrow, ready to wheel down to the bottom of the garden.

Then we decanted the juice – perhaps around five gallons a pressing – into the barrel.
We cleaned out the press and repeated the process: - clean the apples, break them up, press them, decant the juice – over and over again.
At lunchtime Chris fried up some of the last of the season’s tomatoes from the polytunnel, melted some grated cheese over the top and put the mixture over some toast from a homemade loaf. We drank ice-cold lager with it and my cheeks glowed. It’s fairly hard, repetitive work, grinding down 21 sacks of apples into 40 gallons of juice and it took us a full day plus a couple of hours the following morning for Chris on his own. But for a year’s delicious cider drinking I’d say it’s ultimately good value labour.